Padmaja Kalapala“Finally, you are travelling international” said my daughter, as the immigration official at Shamshabad stamped my passport, who had struggled to resolve ‘a last minute realised’ wrong entry of passport number in my e-visa by approaching a Viet travel agent and shelling some dollars. The anxieties experienced at the transit Bangkok airport, about my visa-on-arrival or about “the turning up of the agent at the airport as promised” all melted into thin air on landing at Noi Bai airport of Ha Noi. The immigration official at the airport mechanically stamped my passport despite the inaccurate details in the ‘visa- on- arrival’. After buying an e-sim card and exchanging currency the much-dreamt travel took off its first leg at “Golden Sail” in Ha Noi’s Old Quarters. Finding vegetarian food as South Indians was tough, but the hotel’s continental breakfast sustained us.
Hanoi immediately felt like a whirlwind of motorbikes blending French colonial architecture with modern coffee shops. We explored traditional shops and soaked in the city’s lively rhythm. As it was Christmas time, the 130-year-old St. Joseph’s Cathedral was beautifully decorated with lights and flowers, promising evening music and light shows, and we couldn’t resist trying “Banh ran”, sweet fried rice balls from a nearby vendor.
Later, we visited Hoan Kiem Lake and the thrilling Train Street, where we enjoyed coffee right by the tracks as a train zoomed past inches away while a few of the fellow tourists placed bottle caps and coins on the rails and retrieved them as souvenirs. The Hanoi night market, filled with crafts and glowing lights, provided a vibrant end to our day. We observed with surprise, Hanoi’s organized trash routine. The tiny, knee-high restaurant seating was a fun-filled challenge to most of the Indians while the natives managed with a great ease and overweight individuals were seen rarely. Communication was often tricky due to language barriers, but Google Translate proved invaluable.
Wonders of Ha Long Bay and Sapa
The next morning, our two-and-a-half-hour journey to Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was comfortable on well-maintained roads. Our diverse group, thoughtfully managed by our guide, Nam, explored uniquely shaped islands. The highlight was hiking to Sung Sot Cave, marvelling at its stalactite and stalagmite formations under magical lighting. Kayaking through calm waters to hidden caves was an exciting experience. We then faced a 400-500 step climb up Ba Tho peak for absolute stunning panoramic views of the bay. While my daughter climbed, I relaxed on the beach with the co traveller English teacher. A game of beachball by players of different nationalities and races indulging in pure sport resulted in radiant joy. The bay was truly enchanting creating entirely a new magical world. Our day ended with a lovely deck party as the sun set over the bay.
Aerial view of the Bay from the Ba Tho Peak
After an overnight bus trip from Ha Noi, we arrived in the misty town of Sapa, known for its rice fields carved into the hillsides and the villages of different ethnic groups. It was a special kind of bus with beds arranged in two levels and three rows. Each person had their own little private space with curtains, a place for shoes, a water bottle holder, a personal video screen, Wi-Fi, and a bed that could be folded out. Even though the roads through the hills were winding, the ride was surprisingly smooth and comfortable.
The charming part was that even though the bus reached Sapa town very early, around 3:30 a.m., the bus crew waited until 5:30 a.m. to deboard the passengers so they could continue sleeping. This was also a good safety measure since taxis usually were available around that time.
Our homestay was near Cat Cat village, and the scenery was beautiful. However, getting there in the cold morning fog on the difficult terrain was a bit challenging. The weather was very cold, around 4 or 5 degrees Celsius, and we were really freezing until we turned on the heaters in our room.
Boarding a Funicular at the immaculately clean and gorgeously aesthetic Sun World Sapa station, we ascended Fansipan, Indochina’s highest mountain. Further climb was facilitated with cable cars and the path to the cable car station was pretty, with lots of succulents of different shapes and colours glowing beautifully in the sunny mist. The cable car took us high above deep valleys filled with mist.
At the summit, a steep climb on rocky steps led us to a huge copper Buddha statue and the Fansipan Temple complex. The December air was crisp and we walked through and above the swirling clouds. It felt that the nature in its pristine form is an incarnation of the divine.
The copper statue of Lord Buddha on the Fansipan peak
The panoramic cable car ride back to the Funicular station offered breathtaking views, and we picked up souvenirs at the Sun World. Back in Sapa, we were delighted to find Ganesh restaurant for some much-missed Indian food. Winter brought early sunset, and the chilly December nights in Sapa were perfect for soaking in the local atmosphere. Exhausted from all the treks and walks we had to pillion ride ‘Gocheck’ motor bikes Viet version of Indian Rapido on our way to the homestay due to landslides.
Cat Cat Village and Ninh Bin
The next day, our three-hour trek to Cat Cat Village gave us a close look at the Black H’Mong people’s traditional crafts. We observed tribal women stitching on fabrics with natural indigo dyes. Nestled amid rolling hills and cascading waterfalls Cat Cat Village, with its unique atmosphere and step farming, left a lasting impression. It was a delight to explore traditional houses, savouring sweet potato freshly cooked on embers. We returned to Hanoi by that night.
Our arrival in Hanoi was marred by an unsavoury taxi experience. The driver’s deceptive actions and aggressive behavior forcing us to pay double the fare, especially after we had experienced such kindness from other Vietnamese people, were unsettling. We wisely chose not to argue in the chaotic situation.
Despite the travel fatigue, our determination to maximize our eight-day trip was clear. We immediately packed for the next day’s 10.30 pm flight to Da Nang, and the day hours in between were squeezed in for a day trip to Ninh Binh.
Bai Dinh Temple in Ninh Binh was incredible, with intricate architecture and massive bronze Buddha statues. The ‘Trang An’ boat ride was incredibly peaceful, enhanced by our warm peasant rower.
Da Nang Arrival and A Rainy Start
Da Nang, with its golden beaches, felt modern. Our airport taxi ride, by ‘Grab’ which is like India’s Ola was uneventful even at 12.30 midnight and the hotel manager had assured us that we could start our day tour from that afternoon. Our first day was rainy, and our tour guide seemed impatient. Despite this, Linh Ung Pagoda and the towering Lady Buddha on Marble Mountain were impressive, though mist obscured views of the South China Sea. Even with the rain, Linh Ung Pagoda is an impressive sight.
Monkey Mountain proved quite the adventure, with a steep, rocky, and slippery climb to ancient pagodas. We got separated from our group after choosing to hike instead of taking the elevator, but thankfully, a video call to our guide helped us find our way back.
Hoi An and Ba Na Hills
The magical town of Hoi An was a perfect end to the day, with its mustard-yellow buildings, paper lanterns, and lively riverside. We explored markets, bought hand crafted leather bags and sandals, and enjoyed a boat ride on the Thu Bon River. The night market was vibrant, and releasing a lantern into the shimmering river, making a silent wish for another adventure together was a beautiful moment.
Our self-guided day trip to Ba Na Hills, especially the Golden Bridge held by stone hands, felt surreal in the rain and mist. Even with the rain and heavy mist, walking on the bridge above the clouds has felt dreamlike and it was a sight to behold! The French Village, like a European town with its cobblestone streets and cafes, offered a unique atmosphere, despite the feel of an entertainment park.
Returning to Da Nang, we explored the beach, streets, Han River, and ‘Son Tra’ night market, picking up souvenirs. Watching the Dragon Bridge breathe fire and water was the highpoint, and a peaceful walk along the Han River fostered reflection on our strengthened bond of a mother and daughter.
However, our journey ended stressfully with a significant flight delay from Da Nang to Kuala Lumpur, as we missed the connecting flight to Hyderabad. A frantic run, to avoid missing the flight, through the Kuala Lumpur airport was disorienting. We opted for the airline’s offer of a next-day flight with accommodation. There were concerned calls from family and suggestions to visit the city of Kaula Lumpur since we had the visa. We avoided venturing into Kuala Lumpur on New Year’s Eve to prevent further mishaps. Spending the day at the airport and finally catching our flight home was a great relief. Despite these travel hiccups, our Vietnam trip was filled with incredible experiences, from Hanoi’s vibrancy to Sapa’s serenity, Bai Dinh Temple’s grandeur, and Hoi An’s charm. The warmth and hospitality we encountered left a lasting impression, bringing us closer to each other and creating several cherished memories.
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పెద్దన్న
శ్రీరామ్
ఏ.కె. ప్రభాకర్
గూండ్ల వెంకట నారాయణ
అరిపిరాల సత్యప్రసాద్
ఉణుదుర్తి సుధాకర్
హరివెంకట రమణ
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